Daz 3D is part of 
Connect
DAZ Productions, Inc.
224 S 200 W, Suite #250
Salt Lake City, UT 84101
Licensing Agreement | Terms of Service | Privacy Policy | EULA
© 2024 Daz Productions Inc. All Rights Reserved.Daz 3D is part of
Connect
DAZ Productions, Inc.
224 S 200 W, Suite #250
Salt Lake City, UT 84101
Licensing Agreement | Terms of Service | Privacy Policy | EULA
© 2024 Daz Productions Inc. All Rights Reserved.
Comments
Yes you can, this is pretty easy. Once you have used your "applier" (the main file of the main folder of Amazing Skins), you are going to select : Skin + Lips + Toenails and fingernails, in the surface tab, and then hit "val" in the text filter above, in order to see and increase the 'value (lightness) preprocess" dial. This is going to increase the lightness of the diffuse map. This is a beginning. You can eventually then play with saturation, and use a hue shift, but maybe changing the value and saturation will be enough. Think of what you would do in photoshop or GIMP to achieve your result, and do the same here (it's a mini integrated photoshop).
The easiest to set up is too activate IPR in aux viewport so that you see immediately the result of your settings.
There is another dial of a hidden parameter you will have to raise, the name of the hidden parameter is value2forspecval which is by default at 1.1 and must be higher for darker skins. This tells you how much you have to lighten the diffuse map before it is considered as being the specular color. It is important to raise it if you want to enhance specular (gloss highlight, specular highlights).
Oops and I forgot : you have lights sets you can load in Amazing Skins which render in general pretty fine and pretty fast (they are in the FullScenes/build your scene/ folder).
http://www.daz3d.com/fwsi-marie-hd-for-monique-6
http://www.daz3d.com/fw-shaneka-hd-for-monique-6
http://www.daz3d.com/fwsa-tamara-for-monique-6
I chose them to show the variation in the skin tones, stock.
Yes you can, this is pretty easy. Once you have used your "applier" (the main file of the main folder of Amazing Skins), you are going to select : Skin + Lips + Toenails and fingernails, in the surface tab, and then hit "val" in the text filter above, in order to see and increase the 'value (lightness) preprocess" dial. This is going to increase the lightness of the diffuse map. This is a beginning. You can eventually then play with saturation, and use a hue shift, but maybe changing the value and saturation will be enough. Think of what you would do in photoshop or GIMP to achieve your result, and do the same here (it's a mini integrated photoshop).
The easiest to set up is too activate IPR in aux viewport so that you see immediately the result of your settings.
There is another dial of a hidden parameter you will have to raise, the name of the hidden parameter is value2forspecval which is by default at 1.1 and must be higher for darker skins. This tells you how much you have to lighten the diffuse map before it is considered as being the specular color. It is important to raise it if you want to enhance specular (gloss highlight, specular highlights).
This is all very helpful, thank you. It is good to find tools that help use products that I had almost given up on. I can't tell you how many clothes I have that I just can't get to fit correctly when posed. But at least you are giving me new options to try with my characters.
"O" yea, faceplant time droped from over 2 minutes, to under 7 seconds :cheese:
Marie, has lost some of that sheen in the transfer. Remember what I said about sometimes the 'backing color' doesn't get transferred over. Doesn't matter, were changing her skin tone any way.
"O" in promos, they love having 'Specular' lights blowing out the sheen, to get that side effect of halo. My test chamber is NOT doing that deception trick. Bringing up the gloss intensity would also do it, and coloring the lights as well. With Amazing Skins, we can make her look like the promos, next to other figures under uniform lighting (No special lights for each figure).
(EDIT)
And with a single dial "00. Value (Intensity) Process" near the top, she is now slightingly brighter toned.
I held the Ctrl key after selecting 'Skin' to add by clicking on Fingernails, Lips, and Toenails to the list.
And adjusting the sheen a tad, to get some of the 'details' back. I could probably back off on the brightness (top labeled dial) a tad, with the increased sheen (lower labeled dial). I trust tho, the idea is shown quite well?
I was supposed to be paying bills today :red:
I have got to try "Faceplant Goddess" with this, lol.
http://www.daz3d.com/forums/viewreply/785461/
What's "faceplant"?
I'm really going to have to bookmark this thread. Lots of good information to work through.
Thanks all.
What's "faceplant"?
I'm really going to have to bookmark this thread. Lots of good information to work through.
Thanks all.Its just after all the mats have been optimized, and 3delight is just sitting at 0% render, and 100% CPU load. Regardless of render settings.
http://www.daz3d.com/forums/discussion/47663/
3delight has literally fallen on it's face, and is doing a Skateboard 'Face Plant' of sorts. lol
Much better! The idea is well shown. You can do it the way you do it or you 2 have other parameters to play with the sheen :
1. Increase the total amount of main SSS (will increase your sheen and Main [edit] Scatter)
2. Increase the main index of refraction (will "spread" a little bit more the Sheen)
Don't increase the deep SSS things, it is really not useful for dark figures!
Faceplant means he slapped himself in the face before uttering the rest of that sentence metaphorically I hope
I just say "Doh" myself :lol:
7 seconds of faceplant is already a lot for Amazing Skins... I'm worried..
2 HD figures plus another in less than 7 seconds, THIS is normal! I'm totally reassured! xD
The lighting rigs do slow it down though. I tried the Uber Occlusion and Area set and it took more than 20 minutes to render a single figure. Without the lights it took a few seconds.
I've tried setting up my own lights using those included with DAZ Studio but I still have not managed to get anything approaching the quality I used to get with Luxrender. I stopped using Reality (for now) because it doesn't show the displacement and HD details (or it increases the render times to days, not hours) and Geo-grafting was not working (though I'm told hat has been fixed now).
Anyhow, that's a whole other story. By the way, which 3Delight lighting rig do you prefer?
Yeah, FacePALM I know of. I just hadn't heard of FacePLANT.
Faceplant means to literally fall on one's face. See the picture up in post #38.
never heard face plant either.
robert plant, yes :lol:
While we are talking about skins, I have been wondering if there is a way to add masks in 3Delight. I've never had much success with LIE so I tend to use Photoshop for post-render corrections.
What I want to do is add wet areas (wet hands or face or lower legs, etc.). I have some of those Ron's Photoshop brushes but they don't really give me the effect I want. Ideally I would like to add a mask so that only a patch of skin is affected during the render.
Any ideas?
Posibly with a shell, a conforming shell. That way, the properties of the liquid (Oil, water, etc) can be applied to the new surface over the skin, just like reality.
I have only looked at opacity maps on the Gsuit2 for example to make outfit parts. If you have PS/GIMP, and the UV map for the body shell, then it should be easy to make a gray-scale map for where the wet stuff is (Strength maps), and opacity where it is not.
It's a thought.
It's not that 3Delight can't do it...it's that the default surfaces in Studio don't use a shader capable of doing it.
UberSurface 2 IS a multi-layer shader and is capable of those type effects.
http://www.daz3d.com/ubersurface2-layered-shader-for-daz-studio
And for a ShaderMixer solution, 3Dcheapskate came up with this a couple of years ago....
http://www.sharecg.com/v/66637/gallery/21/DAZ-Studio/DAZ-Studio-Shader-For-S.E.Asian-Shields
and
http://www.sharecg.com/v/71448/gallery/21/DAZ-Studio/Multi-Layer-Tiling-DAZ-Brick-Materials
No, they are not replacements for the default surface, like US2, but rather show that layers are NOT outside of 3D3light's capabilities.
Not really. I do use PS or Gimp to correct the hue on the skin occasionally but mainly I use the sliders in the surfaces tab. I wish I knew more about SSS because I'm never sure how to change that or what effect the change will have.
You can get some nice effects on fantasy skin tones (esp. blue ones) in GIMP with the color Decompose/Compose compared to what you can get by just using the hue slider.
If you just use the hue slider, then you're going to end up with the more peach/yellow parts of the skin being bluer and the redder parts of the skin ending up greener and oversaturated (e.g. the cheeks and the inner part of the ears) This doesn't look so good-- chances are that you want the yellower/peach parts of the skin to be greener and the reddish/pinkish parts of the skin to be bluer or more violet/indigo/purplish.
So here's a step-by-step for getting a decent blue fantasy skin tone by using the "Decompose" filter.
--Open the "Torso" texture for the skin set that you want to change. Make sure to start with the torso, because this one has the most color contrast of the three.
--Go to the Colors dropdown menu, then place your cursor over "components". In the window that appears to the right of "Components", click on "Decompose".
--A window/box will open up. At the top of this box, you will see a drop-down thingy that says "RGB". Click the downward arrow. It will bring up a dropdown menu. Click on "CMYK".
--Unless you messed around with the other settings, Gimp will open a new image with four layers. Now, open the layers window. (Do this either by clicking the "Windows" dropdown menu and click "Layers". Or bring up the Layers menu if you have that docked)
--You should see four layers. Drag either the "Magenta-K" or "Yellow-K" layer so that these two layers switch places.
--Now, go back to the Colors dropdown menu, and once again place your cursor over "Components". In the window that appears right of "Components", click "Compose"
--THIS IS IMPORTANT-- Click the dropdown menu at the top of the Compose box/window. MAKE SURE TO CLICK ON CMYK ONCE AGAIN.
--You should now have a fuchsia (sort of purplish-pink) version of the original texture. Click on the "Colors" dropdown menu again, then click on Hue-Saturation. Now adjust the hue slider until you get a bluish texture. IMPORTANT-- make sure to record the amount that you adjusted the hue by, because you will need to do the same with the rest of the skin textures (face, torso, limbs)
--Now save your skin.
--Next, open either your face or limbs map.
--Repeat all of the steps above. When you adjust the hue slider, make sure to change it by the exact same amount/number that you did for the torso map. Save this map as well.
--Open the remaining map and repeat the steps given above.
--If you have an SSS color map, then open the SSS torso color map. Repeat the above steps once again, UNTIL you reach the hue/saturation part. You may prefer to slide the hue to a different amount than you did for the diffuse maps, so experiment until you're happy with what you have. Then save your texture.
--Repeat this process with the other two SSS color maps.
--Now, regardless of whether or not you choose this method or just adjust the hue via the Hue/Saturation slider, you are still going to want to adjust the colors of the material settings for the texture set. For blue, enter the RGB formula into GIMP. If you have Lazlo's Color Only Invert filter (which you should-- it's in the big Gimp Plugins collection), then use that and record the formula. Use that for whatever material colors come with the skin.
Voila! You're done! That was a lot of work, wasn't it? But hey, it's worth it if you want a better texture than what you'd get with just a hue adjustment, and it's far less work than hand-painting a hue or color layer on top of the original skin.
If anyone is still interested in this subject, I happened across another thread which describes using Amazing Skins shaders with genitals (not necessarily the 3feetwolf product discussed in this thread). I assume this would apply to male versions such as the Jepe product for M4 gens which SickleYield has recommended.
The thread is here:
http://www.daz3d.com/forums/discussion/44294/P45/#672126
By the way, last night I noticed there was a 50% off sale on the V3Digitimes store and thought I would probably look to buy some of the items this morning. By the time I woke up, however, the prices were back to normal. Who knows how many flash sales have started and ended during my sleep time (I'm in the UK).
EDIT: another question I have wondered about: is there a recommended Gamma Correction setting to use with Amazing Skins? For "standard" skins I have been playing with GC on and settings of 2.2 or 1.7 (the latter is said to suit Mac screens and I have an iMac). But I have to say that these "standard" skins often seem to look "washed out" with GC turned on.
I've just tried a few test renders using Amazing Skins for V6HD and with Gamma Correction:
a) Off,
b) On @ 1.7
c) On @ 2.2
and, though it is a subjective view, the best result in my opinion is with GC on at 1.7. Also, as I mentioned before, 1.7 perhaps suits my Mac screen. That's why posting those images here would be somewhat pointless.
Comments and advice always welcome :)
It is good looking at new posts on the forum to see the amazing genitals are still hanging around.
Is a topic that could get in some's face and rub them the wrong way but I guess it comes down to the how hard they are to get done with the rest of the body so everyone has a happy ending.
:lol:
2015 internet win.
Well, some products come and go, and others never manage to rise to expectations, so someone has to take things in hand, right? But yes, if I were the PA, I'm sure I'd be glad to hear so many nice things being said about my amazing genitals, as I imagine the competition can be pretty stiff.
To Marble (and others),
I also use 3Feetwolf products and I had the same problem than you and I finally succeed this way:
Before using the method described by zarcondeegrissom,
First TIP:
apply the adequate 3feetwolf UV map to “Genitalia-default” in order to add the corresponding diffuse image in the surface tab, for example “genitalia_HD”.
Then as described by zarcondeegrissom:
"(EDIT first apply the Amazing skins to your figure)
Select the hip on your figure using the surface-selector thing. Save it as a “Shader Preset”. Then apply that to your ‘Critical bits’. a Ctrl-click may be needed if you’re keeping a different set of maps on the ‘Critical bits’.”
Second TIP:
Select “Genitalia-default” and in the surface tab replace the image of the diffuse color by the previously created “genitalia_HD”.
Finally change its UV Map to “Default UV’s”.
You can also replace all the related textures if you want i.e genitaliaBU_HD and genitaliaS_HD and genitaliaSSS but the diffuse alone do the job.
AS use many specifics surface settings that are not recognized by the 3Feeetwolf product so the alternative is to replace the standard textures by the corresponding 3DFeeetwolf textures AFTER applying the AS settings.
Many thanks to zarcondeegrissom for his help.
Thanks for all these tips!
I don't really know what I could do to help this. I've worked on a time on a script able to save only the important parameters of amazing skins (but not the maps and not the UV sets) in a partial shader preset. It is not finished, I had some interface issues : I could not have the user selecting the save name and folder destination.
If really there is a strong demand (mainly because of this gen issue), I'll go back on my latest developed script to see if an idea pop up to solve this...
I wouldn't be concerned. The methods described above and also by the vendor (3feetwolf) work well if you do them in the right sequence. After a few times it is easy.