3D printing, I am waiting
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Good luck with the printing. I presume that the sword sheaths will need to be bridged, as it prints from the bottom up. Or print it upside down. ;-)
well my Vista laptop is out apparently
need to make room in my bedroom with desktop
on floor for now
needed to download repetier host as the included software hates my computer too
was intending to do firmware hack AFTER warranty ran out not now but it does not even recognize Australia as a valid country so cannot register so blah!!!
and no cannot use THAT either without hacking printer itself
I found had to do AUSTRALIA shouting BTW
so need to get this damn software working somehow
Well I did finally get the updated version of the software/ firmware to work
not running Skype seems to have fixed it
my print will take 12 hours and it is playing a VERY loud diatonic tune as it prints IN MY BEDROOOM!!!! As I attempt to sleep
not what I intended hence the laptop.
I may need to look into a cheap new compatible laptop oneday or move my desktop out of my bedroom, prolly the later but that will have an airconitioner for Octane render factored in the price which is why a new laptop might be cheaper.
(my tower sits by my bedroom aircon the only one I have)
Prolly won't help you sleep, but i feel a little drumroll is in order!
Uhem, I made my basecamp too thick, so that has consumed a fair bit of plastic filament and makes it 45% of the job so far. . . .
It is in no danger of toppling over at least :lol:
was thinking bout you in my sleep, lol
weird dream you were making a bust version, one of those from shoulders up
there was a cat
I am getting high on plastic filament fumes in my sleep.
I am getting high on plastic filament fumes in my sleep.
more like magic marker fumes? or more like glue fumes?
:)
my first attempt failed miserably and took 12+ hours
made mistake of adding rafts, it printed solid!!
was Jaderail but all you see is legs and arms and a big block of honeycombed plastic (yes I broke it open)
.......... and wasted half my ABS filament
second go took two hours and was a success, went much smaller and used lesser settings, a kittycat of course
will try smaller and work my way up maybe doing parts and assembling in future.
after all cannot have bits suspended in mid air printing so joining bits best solution.
Kitty looks neat. For the Jaderail figure, I would recommend to add bridges to connect the sword sheaths to the legs (for example using a horizontal cylinder primitive in your modeling program). You can then cut those off once it is printed. That is a pretty common way to allow printing of models that have parts that otherwise would have to be printed in mid-air. Another option that sometimes works well is to print the model upside down. Depends of course on the geometry.
Ciao
TD
Wendy,
I keep my printer in the Garage. I don't want to be around ABS fumes for too long. Some stories say they are bad for you and others say they are not. I would recommend that you put it in a well ventilated area if you can.
All of my prints are off of an SD card, so I don't have to keep the computer connected. If your printer supports an SD or USB card, then you would not need a dedicated computer.
Also, you don't need to print the objects to be solid. A 10% to 20% infill will be just as strong (maybe stronger).
ncamp
It is indeed honeycombed, I am uploading a long boring timelapse video of the job.
I need to hack the firmware to use the SD card but will wait till out of warranty, have looked into how, it will mean cheaper and more varied filament too, this one uses cartridges with a chip that records how much to stop people refilling.
Thanks Wendy, for allowing us to share the trials and triumphs of using your printer!
The cat looks great - I'd be very pleased if I got such a result! (I'd be very pleased just to have the printer!)
In traditional sculpting, to make multiple copies of a piece, the artist makes mould sections surrounding the object. Then another medium (plaster, clay, wax, etc.) is poured into the mould to make the copies - out of the chosen medium, obviously.
It always seemed to me that, with a bit of ingenious modelling beforehand, a 3d printer could be used to make the mould sections only. (Think of two halves of an Easter egg, for example). In normal mould-making, short studs are built in along the edges to position the pieces together correctly.
Such a mould generally wouldn't have thin swords and other thin parts to bridge - these would be in two halves as little trenches in the mould. Traditional sculpting techniques could be used for the finished work. Cold-cast bronze, for example, is only Perspex, or something similar, mixed with metal powder.
BTW The simple shape of your cat lends itself to making a one-piece latex mould out of it and making multiple plaster copied. I don't think there are any undercuts.
OOPS, after posting I see that the legs would make one-piece difficult.
Can't believe no one has found the goodies that were installed into the Genesis 2 Male and Female "Anatomy" folders with one of the recent starter essentials updates. There are now geo-grafted bits to make Genesis 2 models "water-tight" and printable. Also, if you own the http://www.daz3d.com/the-tower-remains set, re-download and re-install it. It now contains a duplicate of the model labeled 3D-Print which has already been made 3D print friendly. Not sure how many other items have been tended to this way... but a lot of the PC bundled stuff was recently updated and that's when I found the Tower Remains had changed.
Looks great! And that is a small one, how big can you go?
I looked up the material safety dafa sheet for Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene (ABS). If that is the material that is used, you don't want to sleep in the fumes and do the printing in a ventilated area. In solid form it seems pretty harmless, but the fumes can cause problems for your eyes, respiratory tract and also skin if the fumes condensate on it. Though normally that information should have been provided with the equipment.
Looks great! And that is a small one, how big can you go?
I looked up the material safety dafa sheet for Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene (ABS). If that is the material that is used, you don't want to sleep in the fumes and do the printing in a ventilated area. In solid form it seems pretty harmless, but the fumes can cause problems for your eyes, respiratory tract and also skin if the fumes condensate on it. Though normally that information should have been provided with the equipment.
As far as ABS as a solid, Legos are made of ABS plastic. That should give you an idea of the strength.
Here are some webpages that talk about it:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Is-3D-Printing-Safe-or-DIY-Testing-for-HCN-from-/
https://www.whiteclouds.com/toxicity-abs-plastic-3d-printing
http://wiki.solidoodle.com/abs-safety
If the mods need to remove the off site links, you can google "is abs printing safe"
ncamp
cutey kitteh! :)
http://youtu.be/Rr7TN5KdYLc
yes never intended it in my bedroom, the Dell laptop with Vista incompatibility was unexpected.
Will look into relocating my PC unless I can find a VERY long USB cable, have spare room next to bedroom full of junk.
yes after gun the next thing everyone at work thought I would print was sex toys :lol:
oh you mean the other 3D print geografts anatomy :lol:
I realized BTW addons need to be erect to print or flush to the body unless one adds a support :lol:
Interesting thread ...which I've missed. :-(.
I've had a 3D printer for a couple of years now and wished I'd seen the thread to warn you off.
Filament machines are fine provided you design the item you want in a manner that prints well. I.e. you design it to be printed. It certainly isn't just a matter of "Oh I have a 3d model I'll just print it" - as you would an image file.
The main issue is in respect of support material. If you have a dual head machine, and can print dissolvable filament, you are in with a chance. If not, and you have to print support material, almost inevitable with figures, the main issue is removing the support without damaging any fine detail on the figure which you want to keep.
Powder based and resin vat printers don't have this problem as the unbonded medium supports that which has been fused. These are really the only machines suitable for printing figures. They are spectacularly expensive compared to filament based machines.
If using filament, PLA is much easier to print than ABS as it doesn't shrink as much when it cools. I have seen ABS prints split weeks after printing because of the internal tension through cooling. PLA doesn't suffer as much from bed lift either, it can still occur but not as much. The down side with PLA is it is less heat resistant once printed - I've had prints deform when left in a hot car.
So, apologies, if I'd seen this thread earlier I would have said don't buy a filament printer to print figures because it doesn't really work....even if you do manage to produce a water tight mesh ....and then there is no guarantee your slicing software will understand the mesh sufficiently to produce the print file. And then, unless the figure is sitting, or lying on the floor, you will have to print it too small to get any reasonable level of detail.
I'm not saying it is impossible, and success would be worth the challenge, and the difficulty makes the reward so much sweeter....I've looked at doing it several times...... and then gone "Naaa."
Sorry.
Yes the supports were actually what caused the failure of my first attempt, the cat I studied the model carefully for floating parts facing downward and forgot the whiskers which I would have removed.
As it is one actually printed!!!
Was unexpected, it must have been an upturned one.
Am very happy with my cat actually but learnt a few things in the process.
Not expecting the impossible but can see up pointing swords etc are entirely possible even fine ones as the cats ears printed too.
Is matter of carefully posing for slicing so nothing undercuts anything or is started in mid air.
This thread WAS started asking DAZ about their 3D printing and for the reasons of nice detailed coloured models I still welcome that.
I just decided to go ahead and try my own too, am likely to only do small trinkets myself anyway flat discs with 3D detail possibly for jewelry etc I can paint.
Am thinking of lying my figures flat posed on such discs with a hole/eyelet on the top for thong strings.
Your cat looks great, Wendy, and I believe you will find the way to 3D print your models right - it is just a matter of time.
Regarding of ABS, Lego company are looking for replacement of it in their toys by 2030
http://www.plasticsnews.com/article/20140218/NEWS/140219915/lego-looking-for-a-sustainable-replacement-for-abs
so it seems, not so easy to find a good alternative material soon.
Not necessarily. With fine isolated detail the preceding layer doesn't have time to cool before the next lay is printed. Eventually, the constant placement of hot material on a small hot base, leads to the piece slumping.
I have partially got around this in the past by printing a sacrificial tower away from the required detail to give the pointy bit time to cool between layers. it can still be problematic though.
Swords are probably better printed separately and added afterwards any way. You can then print the sword flat making best use of the strength of the filament grain direction.
I endeavour to print without support material when ever possible (back to the design to print bit). You can generally get away with an overhang of up to 45º without support. Unfortunately my slicing software doesn't differentiate so I either have support material or I don't.
I have also added my own supports, to remove, as this gives greater control than relying on the slicer generated supports.
LIke I said, not necessarily impossible, but very frustrating. Nothing tries your patience like being 6 hours into a 7 hour print, and having something go wrong. It's even worse than waiting all night for a render, and finding it's wrong. At least you haven't wasted material.
USB "extensions" do exist!
Jaderail proving a bit difficult
second go better than first :lol:
Mine a very loght DAZ V6 quite solid (sandstone) Jaderail is hollow AFAIK used 0% the cat is honeycomb filled
They look all very nice, Wendy.
These look great Wendy. It always seemed a bit suspicious to me that few figurines are ever featured in sites advertising affordable printers.
But you've shown what can be done and I'm sure each new work will teach a bit more about how best to go about this.
Hoping to see more!
PS - I wonder if it might be worth investing in a Dremel type of tool to use for clean-up?
update
do not buy an XYZ printer with its software that limits it to their microchipped cartidges
I bough $200 of genuine cartridges and am right pissed of right now
Dear Customer,
Since your region is for AU, and our region is for
USA, please kindly contact your retailer.
Thank you.
Best Regards,
Customer Care (Sheena)
XYZprinting Inc.
www.xyzprinting.com
of course there is no Australian Customer service
it is a software issue
not the retailers fault
I probably am going to have to hack the firmware on this thing to use it if I cannot get it sorted under warranty because their faulty cartridge chip DRM designed to make you buy their refills is penalizing genuine customers which is very bad.