Camera settings for zoomed in shots?
Hi, I am still trying to learn the ropes of this software. I am really confused by all of the different camera settings. Do they work in a different way than an actual dslr camera? Because whenever I try to zoom into to get a shot of just the head and shoulders, it seems like I need to have an apperture of 80 to be in focus which is extremely high considering I try to use 5-11ish for portraits in real life.
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I'm no photographer, so I don't really understand what yxou aer saying (sorry for being dumb).
Do you refer to sharpness of image (Depth of Field Effect)?
Yea, whenever I place the camera right in front of the face, the box indicating what will be in focus will be very small, and the only way to really fix that is to make the F-stop very high like 80-100, which is as I said extremely high even for a landscape but for a portrait it's even worse. That's what makes me wonder if that setting has different numbers than what dslr's use.
If you were taking a close-up picture with a DSLR you wouldn't have it right up at the models face.
You can play around with frame width and focal length to achieve different "fields", but the settings of the DS camera is not 1 on 1 to a real camera.
I understand that I wouldn't be directly in the face, but I would be pretty close, maybe five to eight feet away. But on here I was having to go back as to where I would be seeing from the head all the way down to the shin area.
I'm not really sure what you are trying to do there... could you perhaps post a screenshot of your problem?
What camera settings are you changing?
The settings under Tone Mapping sets up the camera.
The Settings under the Camera Tab sets the camera for using DOF. Turning off DOF in there means it wont be used but the other settings will except the F/stop which is only used if DOF is turned on.
I would have thought most photographers taking close-up shots would use a lens with a focal length between 75 and 135 mm so that they are far enough away not to be in the models face which makes them feel uncomfortable. If you want DOF then you have to balance the focal length/f/stop/focal distance in the Camera Tab to get it right. Using the Display settings so that you can see the Far and Near DOF planes helps as does changing to a Right/Left/Top view so that you can see where the sharp area is.
Portrait settings in Studio:
(Some match real-life camera settings, some don't. These reflect my favorites.)
In the camera settings in the parameters tab:
Perspective = On.
Frame width = 36mm
Focal lengths:
Tight head shots = 135mm
Head and shoulders = 105mm
Head and chest = 85mm
F-stops in studio do not reflect real life at all. Ignore them, use the
bounding box as you have been. In real life, I generally use F4-F11.
In DAZ Studio, I'm using F50-F100 or so.
Using other focal lengths, ie, 24mm or 200mm for a head-and-chest
portrait will result in distortion due to perspective. You can use the
Pixel Filter Radius in the render settings tab as a kinda-sorta soft focus
filter. The higher the number, the greater the effect.
The bloom filter is sometimes useful for softening portraits, as well.
I have no idea what Lens Thickness does. Maybe someone else does.
I do hundreds of portrait shots for my Art Studio product showcase thread. The Focal Length I use is between 90 and 125 for portraits- then you can zoom forward and back as you see fit, keeping it a head or bust shot. (Used for first two below) Then for a slightly more inclusive shot like the third one, I back that off to about 70-80.