OT: Did I lose a CPU core?
LycanthropeX
Posts: 2,287
My power supply just died, so I took the power supply out of my old computer and put it in this one. Everything seems to be working fine except its showing 5 cores not 6. Did I lose a core when the power supply went down?
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Check your Bios when you load. Sometimes they can shut a core off automatically.
thanx, i will check that
ok this machine does not seem to like this power supply. If i activate all 6 cores then it won't boot up Windows, if i leave it at 5 cores then i can boot up windows
The PSU prolly doesnt have enuff watts to push all your cores. You can get a new PSU for fairly cheap.
its a 500 watt PSU, the one that died was 550 Watts, doesn't seem like there would be much difference.
I intend to get a new PSU but i will need to limp along on this one for a couple of weeks before i can.
Doesn't seem like much when you look at over all wattage but when you break it down and think of it as if you were running a device that required 45 watts and all you had was a 5 watt power supply it starts to make sense. A missing 50 watts could well make all the difference.
If you're running that close to the edge, then you definitely need a higher-capacity power supply. See what you can get in the way of a 600 or 650 watt PSU - if you ever add something to your computer (possibly as much as plugging in a USB drive) the extra power will be used.
Yes, bigger is always better when it comes to power supplies and wattage. You machine will only draw the wattage it needs but if it's not there when you need it there will be a wailing and a gnashing of the teeth.
Yep, the first PSU may have failed prematurely because it was running at full capacity for long duty cycles. Best to get one 1/3 larger than needed. Also larger PSU's tend to be better made and regulate the voltage better, offering better surge protection to system components.
For deskyop systems with dedicated graphics adapter today I go with 650 watts MIN. If a high end GPU, or 3-4 drives running at a time go with 750 watts. Dual GPU, AMD-FX with Liquid Cooling and 32GBram calls for a 750watt or greater.
Also dont buy a PSU based on cost alone - there are some very cheap ones that are marketed high power but are over -spected junk. If you are not familiar with the brands and cannot get the MTBF spec, amd faced with a choice in import models, buy the HEAVIER one at the same wattage. The better PSU's have more mass as the voltage regulators are cooled by metal heatsinks & fan air.
A good PSU with a well regulated output goes a long way in maintaining system stability. A PSU running on the edge may cause system hangs and crashes under load. Eventually it will overheat and if a voltage regulator fails before a fuse your mobo is usually toast.
Unfortunately not all power supplies are built the same so even though the quoted output power is only 50 watts down the differences can go a bit deeper. To start with that 500W figure is normally the total maximum output power from all the rails from the PSU added together, it could be that the one or more individual output rails is simply not up to the job required of it so it could be that another 500W PSU could well drive the system if it has more current available on the required rail.
If the PSU has multiple rails of the same voltage it could be that a bit of juggling of peripherals and supply connectors could make a difference if they are true individual rails rather that simple multiple connectors supplied from a single regulator within the PSU (check the PSU label or paperwork to see if it quotes multiple output capabilities at the same voltage for different connector groups).
What you can do is compare the individual output rail capabilities between the failed & working PSUs to see if there are any significant differences, if so then note this and check when buying a new PSU to make sure that the new PSU is at least as good as & ideally better than the failed unit in this respect. This is where the basic 'Bigger is Better' process falls down, because if any one of the individual rails is not up to the job then the hight total power output is worthless.
If you want to be sure of the new PSU you should be able to find the power consumption figures for all your major components & total up what you need remembering to give yourself a big enough margin for the unaccounted for & for future expansion needs. Also it's worth looking at the new PSU's efficiency, a more efficient PSU is cheaper to run (but not by that much) & should run cooler as that waste power will basically be heat.
From my experience it is usually better to go for a known brand rather than those really cheap brands that you have never seen before, they might be really good & a true bargain but I've had a few nasty experiences with them taking out motherboards when they failed not just themselves so I tend to play safe.
I have to concur with what Kinich is saying. There's an article on hardwaresecrets.com that talks about how many power supply brands will simply farm out to China who will label the PSU any way they want, regardless of the actual wattage of the unit. They can sell a 300w as a 650w, and in fact that did happen to me once. Even if your unit says 500w it might be a 250w for all you know.
Don't go with dirt cheap. Go with something that has a good rating from a reliable brand, with good reviews. If you want that range expect to pay $60-80.
Well, your PSU drives all your components. So 500 watts can get u by, but you really need more (esp if ur pushing multiple cores and/or have a graphics card) Me personally, I'd prolly go up to a 750 or 800 watt. You can get em at best buy starting at like 60$ and up. I think I paid around 80$ for an 750 watt... and it worked really well.
Find a wattage calculator online and fill out your computer specs. Whatever the wattage is, multiply by 1.5 and that will be your minimum wattage you should get cause you always want to have a safty buffer. You are better off having more power then you need. That way you can add more or newer hardware to your system without having to worry.
this is all very interesting and informative.
The 550 Watt that was less than 3 years old and just died was in a system that had a 6 core AMD, a graphics card, an external hard drive, a mouse, a wacom, and the case fans
The 500 Watt that i am currently using is almost 10 years old and was in a system with a Quad core AMD, a graphics card, 6 internal hard drives, an external hard drive, a mouse, a wacom, and the case fans,
i haven't added up the wattages of all the devices but at a glance it seems like it would be pulling less juice in the new box than in the old one.
at any rate i plan on buying a new PSU in a couple weeks, just trying to limp along on the 500W until then. For the most part the 500 seems to be running just fine so long as i don't activate the 6th core.
ok I went to ASUS' site and entered all my stuff into their Wattage calculator and it says i need a minimum of 700 Watts, so it looks like i am looking for an 850 to 900 watt PSU
i want a 10.21 Gigawatt PSU
Very necessary if you want your force field not to flicker while rendering.
So, you're running z/OS, are you? :coolsmile:
i just figure with 10.21 Gigawatts i could get my renders done in no time
Make sure you get one with enough amps on the 12v rail. You'll have to look up your current equipment to get the required amps.
Also, if you're up for a recommendation, I love my Corsair AX1200 (gold certified). It's not cheap, but there is an AX850 version, which is more than $100 cheaper.
http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Professional-Series-Modular-AX850/dp/B003PJ6QW4
How much a xxx Watt PSU can actually deliver depends a lot of the brand. Cheaper PSUs often can't live up to their specifications.
Edit: Sorry, I misread you - thought it was the new one that was 550 W. Like ghastlycomic says, those 50 W less can easily make the difference.
You mean a nuclear power plant? :lol:
unfortunately i am on a tight budget, so spending over $100 is not really realistic at this time :(
Do not skimp on the power supply - if something goes wrong with it and the fuse doesn't blow, your motherboard will be damaged and you'll need a whole new computer.
If you're on a dollar budget for the PSU and you need to buy one that isn't quite up to the job, then you'll need to pull something out of your computer for a while. As much as you likely won't want to, you can remove your graphics card and use the onboard video connection - that might save enough power.that you can use a less-expensive PDU. (There's an obvious trade-off here, though...)
Do not skimp on the power supply - if something goes wrong with it and the fuse doesn't blow, your motherboard will be damaged and you'll need a whole new computer.
If you're on a dollar budget for the PSU and you need to buy one that isn't quite up to the job, then you'll need to pull something out of your computer for a while. As much as you likely won't want to, you can remove your graphics card and use the onboard video connection - that might save enough power.that you can use a less-expensive PDU. (There's an obvious trade-off here, though...)
I can get an 850 or 900 watt PSU in my price range, but the question is, how good is a $100 PSU?
basically I am at a point where it is buy what i can afford now, or wait 6 months or so and not have use of my computer till then
I can get an 850 or 900 watt PSU in my price range, but the question is, how good is a $100 PSU?
basically I am at a point where it is buy what i can afford now, or wait 6 months or so and not have use of my computer till then
this one is $104 after a rebate, so you wait 6 weeks and they send you a visa card with $15 on it
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139029
I've had a Corsiar Bronze 750 in my box for 3 years and it gets used daily for Luxrender, Blender, Studio and Adobe CS on an i7 with 12GB RAM and an nVidia card (which is the biggest PSU vampire in your box), that PSU is rock solid.
ok the psu calculator said i needed a minimum of 700 watts. multiplying that by 1.5 puts it up to 1050 watts
I have to agree with robkelk. The PSU is the one item you *don't* want to skimp on. If it fails, you could lose your whole system.
Also, "brand names" mean nothing in the PSU world. Most all PSU's are purchased from distributors and rebadged. Look for good warranty coverage, and reviews that are positive.
If you get the PSU and it isn't "heavy" to hold, then send it back. A good PSU will easily be the heaviest part (weight) of you system. Good capacitors and VRU's weigh quite a bit. They also get very hot and require heavy heat-sink units. This leads to a lot of weight.
Be mindful of multi-rail PSU's as well. A 750W 2 rail PSU may in fact be a dual 375W PSU that is incapable of running a loaded system. Multiple rails can be a good thing, but they can also be very bad if you don't know what you are looking for.
EDIT: Many of the better motherboard manufacturers will have a list of recommended PSU's and specific models for a specific board. If possible, purchase from that list.
Kendall