Novica & Forum Members Tips & Product Reviews Pt 9
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This armor is really thick and adds about 20 percent size in the neck and chest. But there is skin poking though. I usually turn it off but not visible when I rendered so just fixed in Photoshop. But my morph isn't extreme. It shouldn't be poking though as Michael 7 is listed under supported figures.
I am actually more concerned about the distortion since I can force one iteration of smooth but it doesn't fix the weird way the metallic trim responds when the character moves around. The distortion on the abdomen is also a it odd.
Are you sure it is skin that is poking through? Is it another part of the garment itself. If you make the character invisible, does the pokethrough "skin" disapear, too?
I didn't know that @barbult so thank you for that tidbit which I already know will be very useful to me.
It's skin I'm pretty sure since it is Boyd's rather unique tone. Mostly near the seam area of the metallic accented bits which comprise the exterior of the suit.
Maybe the suit isn't welded and there is a gap between the parts when it is morphed or posed.
I loaded M7, added a very bright emissive shader to replace skin color, added the suit, dialed "lithe" to the max (my preference because it is a realistically bulky suit), place the figure a scene with a very dark HDRI with light from a single direction, and looked for the blindingly blue neon color of the emissive surface and saw no pokethru... is it possible there are some odd custom morphs?
When the figure is used outside of t-pose at least for me- in an action pose is when the skin starts showing. You can see in Michael's left shoulder area. But it also is pulling away a bit from the metal in the image where the character is facing forward holding the pistol pointing towards the camera although it is not obvious from this angle.
I am using Default Michael 7.
I used your suggested technique here. It actually produces a rather interesting look.
After this last image, I dialed the suit 100 expand all, and added smoothing- and there is still places the skin shines through.
Considering nothing but suit is showing anyway, why not go to the Geometry Editor and in Tool Settings, turn visibility off for Michael's surfaces. It's my understanding, Iray will process the materials even if Cutout Opacity is set to zero, but will not if it's hidden via Geometry Editor. So you get rid of the pokethrough, and speed up your renders. The only problem is, the "hidden" state is not saved with the file, so you need to redo it when you open the file.
Hi, Serene Night, I tried a more extreme pose and I replicated the leaks. For me, this is minor because it is the sort of suit that it make sense to make the body invisible just for speed of rendering. The camoflage shade actually requires that the figure be invisible. Wear It All could fix it if I absolutely needed to make a reder with a translucent suit but I can't imagine why I would do that.
I hear you. The set is advertised with a custom fit for Michael 7... Which it doesn't fit.
I like the set, and will keep it, but if a set requires bodyparts are hidden, they should include a hide body preset as there is no way this fits M7- without pokethrough.
Yeah, I know I can hide and tweak and make stuff work. But I shouldn't have to. It should fit, or the tools to make adjustments should be available within the set.
I like the set- and I will keep it, but to me it has some flaws. Other Pa's do manage to make bodysuit products without pokethrough so I know that can work.
You should submit a bug report, Serene Night, if you haven't already.
Thanks for the tips on GenX2. I really need to give that a try sometime. I bought it a few months ago but have never tried to use it.
That tip on Vignetting is also very interesting. At a setting of 250, it gives a render like you are looking through a keyhole.
I did my first render in three weeks tonight. I was out in Washington state with my laptop which has DS on it, but it's also the only computer my wife and I have out there and we use it for email, streaming, shopping, etc. so I seldom try to do a render since it slows everything down. We were also quite busy, as my son decided to get married in the mountains on short notice and we had both our daughters and their families out there, so we were constantly on the go.
When i3 was on flash sale, I bought several sets. This render is using the i3 Dorm Bundle. It didn't appeal to me at first, but at the lower price, it is a nice living space with lots of props that can be repurposed to other scenes. The i13 Dorm Interior can be loaded as a compete scene with lights in place. I added two G3F figures, SC Alice for Genesis 3 Female at the desk and Nyarai for Genesis 3 Female on the bed. They are both wearing the i13 College Uniform for the Genesis 3 Female(s) that comes with the bundle. It looks to me more like a prep school outfit than what a college girl would wear. I used the "go to" poses from the i13 Dorm Pose Collection only to position the figures in the right spots, then used other poses for the actual scene.
Using the lights that come with the set, it was very slow to render. At 1.5 hours, it had only achieved 5% convergence. I can't show what it looked like as I lost the first image when DS got hung up as I canceled the render. I restarted it after adding one 500K ghost light and it rendered faster, getting to 50% convergence at 2 hours (which is this render).
"What a Day!" (click on image for larger view)
Nice render RGcincy! Both girls look pretty exhausted. I've considered getting that bundle, but my main gripe with it is that the room is so spacious. Aren't dorms typically about housing a maximum number of students in a minimum amount of space? And I would guess the school uniforms are probably more about appealing to the generic school girl fantasy than any attempt to portrait a realistic college outfit.
@Serene Night
What I do when it is a full suit with no actor parts visible is to just load the suit and add the morphs to it and then pose it. If you can't see the actor why put him in it? :)
You're welcome. I added a few things- it wasn't meant to be a step by step tutorial, just a supplement to that video I linked- but it turned into one I think. My thing is when I stop doing something, then I forget, and have to start from scratch researching again. So those are my notes where I can just jump right in and crank one out in two or three minutes or less. The "where is it" part will save you time.
The render is funny, being tired is very obvious!
I'm glad I found these reviews. I know the Isidora Dress isn't all that new but the Pt 8 of this thread had a lot of glowing reviews and I just have to put in my 2 cents. I really wish I'd played around with it when I first got it. The phrase "Dynamic-like bottom" in the description led me to believe that it was more than it is. Unfortunately, it really is rigged mostly to match existing pose packs. And granted, there are a lot of them to choose from. However, it has virtually no individual morphs to support standard posing, such as separate skirt bones for the lower leg. I'm somewhat disappointed. I'll keep an eye out for the morph packs on sale, just so I can use the dress for something.
We like the various opinions- particularly if it's not someone's cup of tea, because it makes people think.
I didn't go check, but I remember mentioning in that post that the morphs used those poses, and there were quite a few sets. One thing that is annoying to me, is when I have a pose set wishlisted, then I'm wondering "Okay, why? What outfit did this go with?" I wish they would update the pose product page to say "works with blah-blah-blah dress."
Now, why I'm on the thread. I bought the yacht. EDIT: Nope, I missed a few groups so I deleted that render time. So....be sure you use just the sections you need- even with the preload- because you can just load up the balcony, and I think the pool deck. It's rendering an indoor bar so I can't check the exact preloads at the moment. I am using the default Iray lights because everyone has those, to see how much light comes in to the interior of the yacht. It's quite good. The ISO was something like 160 and Exposure Value 13, as compared to my normal 135 / 14.25 (lower, such as 13, means "lighter.")
There's a lot of props! Going to go do some stuff and come back, will do a separate post.
Yacht looks really neat. I like the pool in the front and the interior props are well made. Thanks for telling me it is a renderhog though.
That would be putting it mildly. I can't be exact, but I decided to test Mitchell filtering so the darned thing reset (but not the time) so taking what was already done (somewhat) and guessing, Edited out the render time, it was wrong. However, glad I bought it- the details are really, really nice. There's five or six ice cubes in the wine bucket, the details in those pictures behind the bar- wow. Takes you back in time.
The Mitchell filter is doing quite well, very little noise in the deep shadows. While I'm typing, the Noise Degrain Filter 3, Radius 4, Blur Difference .25, Pixel Filter Radius 1.32
This is the main room from the Polish yacht. Not exploring the entire yacht at the moment.
All walls were left in place, so this is the light you will have inside the yacht by default. This is a 625px view, you can enlarge to the 900px. Again, this was the Mitchell filter, I liked the way it handled deep shadow noise. Enjoy!
Anyone tried the JM Human Shader for Iray? It's in fast grab, and I've been looking for an easier way to improve skins, especially G2 but can't afford Anagenessis. If anyone has tried it, I'd love to hear your thoughts before I use up my very limited 3d budget.
Thanks in advance!
NOTE: It is important that you go to the next page of the thread, I explored this yacht and definitely will NOT recommend it.
Hold the press, to be fair, when I scrolled out, there are an awful lot of things that didn't get hidden in the scene (missed some of the groups.) So I'd say you can probably whack an hour or more off of that render time.
I rendered the outdoor scene (still using default Iray lights and it was done in 23 minutes. Changed the Film ISO to 137.60 and the Exposure Value to 13.83 I also increased Saturation to 1.06 If you haven't played with Saturation, it really can increase how much color you get. Note all furniture is NOT shown on the inside, I removed quite a bit of it (the scene I just rendered, for example. The table, chairs, pictures on the walls are all hidden.
The front of the yacht was hidden, as was the helicopter, but pretty much all of the backside is shown. So 23 minutes is good! Back in about five minutes to post it.
Well, if you have Ati's app, you can see the gallery images with it. Here's one that I really like. This one shows you a gal in sunlight, I like the oil in the skin. Not overdone, looks good. I did buy it, but haven't used it yet. Let me give it a whirl.
Showing you a default skin on Gianna, then applied the shader (no tweaking, just out of the box) and you can see how shiny she is. I tweaked the Exposure Value and Film ISO . (13.44 Exposure Value and 135 ISO)
Now let me play a bit and I'll add some bump, etc and we'll see what we get.
First: Default Gianna (Rendo.)
Then shader, out of the box. Going to tweak a bit.
Tweaked. Increased the bump, changed the color of translucency to a more gray/blue (instead of light, white I think it was) Anyway, really easy to tweak, and I recommend it. You can make the shine very subtle, and another use, with full shine- would be great for beach/ water skin to add droplets to.
A quick question. I'm not interested in the Yacht, but the helicopter might be useful. Can you blur the rotors?
Thank you so much @Novica, I really appreciate you doing this. At this point I don't know what I'd do without this thread, so much useful info. :)
I'll check the helicopter when I'm done with tweaking the shaders.
One last one of Gianna- this is using the shaders, tweaked exactly the way I had them, but in different lighting. (Both Pro-Studio. This is 15R) It's Dragonfly Hair and Off The Shoulder Outfit.
Now for the helicopter. I'll go look.
This is 1200 px, click to enlarge.
On the helicopter, there is Rotor Top, and in Parameters, twist. So the blades spin around. The Rotor Tail blades also spin. Those are all the options for the blades.
The 4 doors also open.
The seats all move forward and back, and the back of the seats (where your back is) all tilt backward. A LOT of movement details in the helicopter.
thanks! by twist do you mean they blur or just rotate?